The forecast was claiming 2-3+ and fair conditions for this morning, so I was excited about the prospect of some decent surf. I haven’t had a really solid day in a long while. For a bit it looked like Peeb might be able to join me for the fun, but both of our schedules got…
Finally a sunny day! I put my trunks on again and rode down to dog beach. (The Pier was right out – it was a sunny Saturday during summer vacation AND they are building for the Hurley US Open right now. It’s madness down there!) There was some wind chop wave merging, but if you…
Once again, I was so pumped up from the morning sesh that I ventured out for a second time. However, I did try to avoid my mistake from last time of reclaiming former glory. So I chose a different board, The Quatro, and went in with no expectations. But I did made another classic blunder:…
I arrived early at El Porto this morning. And after I arrived I received a few text from other Portoers that there was going to be some tardiness. But I looked out and the ocean was nearly empty with this tiny little barrels rolling in. (We had to tuck in super tight to try and…
The sun finally popped out this afternoon. I’d been trying to get to the ocean all day, but work kept taking precedence. But thanks to summertime the days are long so I was finally able to shut down and paddle out. My wife rode down with me to the beach. It wasn’t the best tide…
After a week long camping trip up in the Sierra Nevada I come home to find the waves mackin’ – overhead waves on every set. Not a good surf primer after a long hiatus. But my heart won out over my head and I suited up and paddled out. And I definitely paid the price. …
The forecast for the day looked small but fun. Upon arrival, the waves looked downright dismal. But so many of us managed to wriggle away from our daily grinds that we definitely had a case of, “we’ve come this far.” So we all suited up and waxed up our boards (except Tracey who decided to…
The big swell is starting to arrive, but not in the glorious fashion I was hoping for. The waves have reached head high and better, but they are section so the rides tend to be short followed by getting blown up by extreme white water. However, the drop-ins were awesome. There was a pretty strong…
I broke one of the fundamental rules of surfing: never try to recreate the glory of a previous session. (Instead always go in to every surf session with a fresh mind.) I’d had so much fun this morning, that I though I’d pack up my bike and head up to the north side of the…
It was nearly epic today. Had the crowds been much lower, it would have been ideal. The waves were waist-to-head high, the frequency was high, lefts, rights…it was all there. But all the jockeying and slaloming detracted from what was otherwise awesome. However, as we drifted north the crowds thinned out a bit and the…