The Welcome Back Smackdown

After a week long camping trip up in the Sierra Nevada I come home to find the waves mackin’ – overhead waves on every set.  Not a good surf primer after a long hiatus.  But my heart won out over my head and I suited up and paddled out.  And I definitely paid the price.  For every wave that I rode, a wave rode me.  But the ones I did get were spectacular (the waves that is, my riding of them was mediocre).

I started out on the south side of the pier but the northbound drift was super swift and I just wasn’t fit enough to fight it too long.  Finally I just gave up and paddled through the pier and tried my luck on the north side.  Both sides were great, but the crowds on the north side made pickings a bit more difficult.  There was one old guy on a tanker who was crushing it.  It was like watching an old Bruce Brown reel.

It’s supposed to get bigger tomorrow.  We’ll see if I can even make it out.