The Welcome Back Smackdown
After a week long camping trip up in the Sierra Nevada I come home to find the waves mackin’ – overhead waves on every set. Not a good surf primer after a long hiatus. But my heart won out over my head and I suited up and paddled out. And I definitely paid the price. For every wave that I rode, a wave rode me. But the ones I did get were spectacular (the waves that is, my riding of them was mediocre).
I started out on the south side of the pier but the northbound drift was super swift and I just wasn’t fit enough to fight it too long. Finally I just gave up and paddled through the pier and tried my luck on the north side. Both sides were great, but the crowds on the north side made pickings a bit more difficult. There was one old guy on a tanker who was crushing it. It was like watching an old Bruce Brown reel.
It’s supposed to get bigger tomorrow. We’ll see if I can even make it out.
Hey, we want some pictures! Glad y’all are getting some good waves down south.
Yeah, I’ve been real lazy about bringing my camera lately. I’ll try and bring one tomorrow since the waves should be impressive.