My first time back out since being sick and what a mess. I knew the conditions were going to be big today, and as if I was fully conditioned for it, I tried to wait it out for the perfect moment. I waited for the tide to drop, but tried to beat the afternoon wind. …
By the end of the work day yesterday both my eyes were twitching and my back was burning with a searing pain. I was heading out for sure no matter what the conditions. I’d been watching the wind pick up all day and figure there would be some significant chop out there. And boy, was…
Finally getting myself back into the swing of the work week after being on glorious holiday for two weeks. After working all day and staring at the computer screen my brain was mush and my eyes were burning, so I decided to cut out and head to the beach for a bit of surf meditation….
Brandon, Donnie and I hedged all our bets today in the hopes of finding more than the recent 1-2s. As I’m sure you know all the reports are indicating that we are going to get some of the good stuff this weekend. All the sites predicted “hints” of the coming swell over the course of…
The most terrifying thing about today’s surf session was the beach break. I’d catch these clunkers way on the outside. Then I’d fight them all the way waiting for the wave to form. And once the wave did form it was suddenly a 5 foot face ready to break right on the beach into a…
We had a big crew at Newport today including me, Brandon, Donnie, AJ and Chris (The Wave Warrior). (Much like Josh, Chris will attack every wave that comes his way.) The clouds looked rainy and the wind made for some turbulent seas. It was totally chowder most of the time. But the faces and shoulders…
I tried to recreate all the magical conditions of yesterdays glorlious surf session, with one change (my board). I rode my bike down to the north side of the Huntingon Pier at the same time, but alas…I should have been there yesterday. (Actually I was, read all about it.) This time though had brought my…