Rodeo Session

My first time back out since being sick and what a mess.  I knew the conditions were going to be big today, and as if I was fully conditioned for it, I tried to wait it out for the perfect moment.  I waited for the tide to drop, but tried to beat the afternoon wind.  But when I got out there it was mostly chowder and closeouts with the rare rouge set coming out of the depths. Long lulls between the useful sets.

I did manage to rope one of the big ones, but got bounced off it pretty quickly.  It was my fault though.  I dropped into the wave pretty sure I was going to eat it.  When I didn’t eat it I was surprised and off balance.  So the lesson learned today is confidence.  I know better too.  Even if the wave has a 99% fail rate, you always go in thinking your are going to make it.  Always.  When I made it to the bottom of the wave, I was totally in the sweet spot to start setting up a nice run.  But I didn’t have my knees bent, nor did I have my balance set to uncork any potential.  Instead the choppy waters literally bounced me off my board where I belly flopped into the face of the wave.  It was quite embarrassing.  I think the ocean was cleverly using humiliating to remind me to always charge the wave with everything.  ALWAYS!