My first time back out since being sick and what a mess. I knew the conditions were going to be big today, and as if I was fully conditioned for it, I tried to wait it out for the perfect moment. I waited for the tide to drop, but tried to beat the afternoon wind. But when I got out there it was mostly chowder and closeouts with the rare rouge set coming out of the depths. Long lulls between the useful sets.
I did manage to rope one of the big ones, but got bounced off it pretty quickly. It was my fault though. I dropped into the wave pretty sure I was going to eat it. When I didn’t eat it I was surprised and off balance. So the lesson learned today is confidence. I know better too. Even if the wave has a 99% fail rate, you always go in thinking your are going to make it. Always. When I made it to the bottom of the wave, I was totally in the sweet spot to start setting up a nice run. But I didn’t have my knees bent, nor did I have my balance set to uncork any potential. Instead the choppy waters literally bounced me off my board where I belly flopped into the face of the wave. It was quite embarrassing. I think the ocean was cleverly using humiliating to remind me to always charge the wave with everything. ALWAYS!
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