The Thickness – Episode 12

The fog was on again.  But this time it did not deter anyone from the sweet waves like it did a few weeks ago.  On the contrary, it was about as crowded in the line up today as I’ve ever seen it at El Porto.  And the waves were superb, which really added to the frustration.  So many people would take off that no one would really get a decent ride out of any of the choice waves.  The waves were strong today too, punishing and pounding the half-hearted take-offs.  Further compounding the frustration was the inconsistency of where the waves broke.  Some were breaking way outside, but plenty were breaking way inside, so the line up was scattered and traffic was always high.

Everyone seemed to managed a few decent rides though.  Strong crew today too – Mike, Josh, Aaron, Uzair, me and guest surfer Bob from the east coast.  (Man, we really need some nicknames.  It’d be so much sweeter if I got to write “strong crew today too – Radar, Chicken Legs, The Captain, Ping Pong, Whiskers and Sweet Bob.”)  But the big news was that I got to try out my new board (more on that in an upcoming post)!

Still having my camera problems, but I did my best to get some decent footage today.  Thanks to everyone who sent me suggestions on replacement camcorders.  I think I may be honing in on something.

The fog created a kind of mystic rainbow from end to end as we got out. It started in the ocean, arced up and landing on the sand.  It wasn’t a colored rainbow like you get after rain, but more of a muted, desaturated rainbow, odd and wonderful.

As always, gracias grande to for providing the soundtrack to my life.


Similar Posts