Choppy Seas, Matey

Finally getting myself back into the swing of the work week after being on glorious holiday for two weeks.  After working all day and staring at the computer screen my brain was mush and my eyes were burning, so I decided to cut out and head to the beach for a bit of surf meditation.

Most kids seems to be starting up at school again, so it wasn’t too crowded at the beach.  Indeed, besides me there was only one other dude in the outside break catching waves, a bodysurfer.  The waves still have a lot of size left from the big swell this weekend.  But the chop was at Homeland Security Level Orange, so discerning the chop from the waves wasn’t always easy.  Furthermore, the line wasn’t obvious as waves were breaking all over the place.  Essentially, I just had to pick a place to sit and hope a set would break in my area.  Sometimes some undercooked waves would pass me by and sometimes I’d have to take a few on the head.  Occasionally a few rogue waves would come out of the deep sea and provide the “+” waves from the forecast, probably in the 6 foot range.

With all that, I managed to pick out a few corners and have some fun rides.  I did take out the Electric, so I was able to zip down the line and avoid a few sudden close-outs to stretch out the ride a bit further.  Man, that board can really sing.  But, as usual, I had no bros to hoot and holler to after a ride.  Instead I was usually doused in a maw of white water.

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