The most terrifying thing about today’s surf session was the beach break. I’d catch these clunkers way on the outside. Then I’d fight them all the way waiting for the wave to form. And once the wave did form it was suddenly a 5 foot face ready to break right on the beach into a gawking crowd.
Still, I got to go out in trunks, so that’s always a plus. But the wind really killed everything out there. The ocean was on full chowder mode today. I did get my three waves in, but they were questionable at best. Oh, Poseidon, why are you so angry?
Looks like at that goodness that has been rollin’ through in the last few weeks has come to an end. And now we watch our surf films and long for the next big event. Or as Aaron always suggests, I could do the McConaughey Palm Frond Dance to try and stir the wave spirits. It just may be worth the effort since the forecast for tomorrow’s El Porto Friday is comically small and heartbreaking.