There were no buds with me, so my surf session was not as awesome as the rest of the crew had at Porto today, but it was still fun. And today I made the conscious decision to not bring any media equipment with me today. No pictures, no video – just surfing. I took the…
Why do I love surfing? The reasons are many, but here is one specific reason: sometimes everything comes together to make for a perfect ride. Being in the right spot, the waves are just so, I’ve got the perfect board for the conditions, Jupiter aligns with Mars… Today I got one of those rides. (Though,…
Another day of great weather/water, but mediocre waves. The waves were bigger than the last few days, some getting to the shoulder range, but none of the waves had any strength behind them. The sets would roll in, we’d get all excited, we’d paddle our hearts out then – poof! The waves would just disappear…
It was another stunning day at Huntington Beach. The swell was supposed to have passed by now, but Poseidon was happy and graced us with an extra day. I mean to tell you the waves were shoulder to high high, sometimes overhead, the shape of the waves were perfect A-frames, easy to take off on,…
It was a great surf session for me today. Unfortunately, it wasn’t quite so for Donnie. Somehow we were on very different wavelengths. Poor Donnie just couldn’t sync up with the ocean. Worse still, it was clear to him that I was in the zone. I did my best not to hoot and holler too…
Finally getting myself back into the swing of the work week after being on glorious holiday for two weeks. After working all day and staring at the computer screen my brain was mush and my eyes were burning, so I decided to cut out and head to the beach for a bit of surf meditation….
Brandon, Donnie and I hedged all our bets today in the hopes of finding more than the recent 1-2s. As I’m sure you know all the reports are indicating that we are going to get some of the good stuff this weekend. All the sites predicted “hints” of the coming swell over the course of…
Surfline called for the same conditions today as yesterday. So Donnie and I though we’d try our longboards today to see if it made much difference. The waves were the same – all size and no strength. But with the longboards we were able to paddle into a bit more than yesterday and we were…
My Spherical Revolver made its triumphant return to the ocean today! Unfortunately, the swell didn’t quite cooperate. The waves were good size today, but like yesterday they just didn’t have the umph to pick us up. The waves would roll up and look all delicious. Donnie and I would be tempted by their siren song…
Today was not yesterday. The water had sand churned into it and no longer had the clarity of yore. The water also had these disagreeable frigid patches I kept passing through. The chop was way up on the Richter scale and the waves had dropped in size and strength. And there were jackals swarming the…