Another day of great weather/water, but mediocre waves. The waves were bigger than the last few days, some getting to the shoulder range, but none of the waves had any strength behind them. The sets would roll in, we’d get all excited, we’d paddle our hearts out then – poof! The waves would just disappear underneath us.
I did manage to get one decent ride, took me all the way in. But here’s a testament to how slow I was going – I had a short conversation with a dude paddling back out. I was riding down the line and the other guy was obviously going to be paddling right through my path. But being the considerate surfer he was, he called out, “Which way you want me to paddle?”
I considered it for a moment, because I had time,”Eh, just stay on your present course. I’ll go under you.”
“Roger that,” he said, “Have a good rest of the ride.”
“Thanks, dude.” I rode on.