There wasn’t anything in the surf forecast that was driving me to the water, but it had been three days since my last surf (and stingray attack!) so I think I just had ants in my wetsuit. I have plenty of work to take care of, but I just could not focus or concentrate on…
We had a very mellow surf session this morning at El Porto. I thought from the forecast that today was just going to be Aaron and me. But the call of the El Porto Friday is strong. Peter was in the parking lot as well when I rolled up. We headed out into the water…
Those were 70s waves out there today. The kind you see in all the classic surf films from that era. And I would have done well to bring the Revolver instead of the Electric. Mind you the electric was superb, but the Revolver would have paddled in better and made those stylish sweeping turns that…
It was a great day at El Porto. The sun was out and the water warm, glassy and clearer than I’ve ever seen it. (Although there was a funky smell in the air.) The water was so clear we could see 15 feet down if we could see a foot. We even spotted a few…
Peter and I met up for an early morning sesh at Porto. It was a pretty nice morning. It was sunny, warm, and conditions were good. Clean, mostly 3s and 4s with some smaller waves. Low tide was at 6:45, so when we first got out it was walled, with a fair amount of close…
It was a chilly and mellow am sesh at Porto. Conditions were small and glassy. Mostly knee high with an occasional waist high wave. Another day to bring out the longboard. Because of the weak swell there wasn’t much of a crowd, but there were still folks out there trying to make the most of…
Fun times at Newport today. The water was (relatively) warm, glassy and clear. The waves were 2-4 foot rollers that just kept rolling on through. Nobody was want for a wave, there was plenty for all. Donnie and I were out there for a good 2 1/2 hours today. Finally my stomach called for the…
It was an exciting morning in Venice today. When I arrived at the beach there was a helicopter hovering over the water. I asked the parking lot dude “Whats up with the chopper?” He said he didn’t know, but it had been hanging out for 5 minutes or so. It stayed there for awhile and…
I paddled out into the morning glass to meet up with my Bros Peter & Tracy. There was some fun surf on tap, mostly 3’s and 4’s. It was swampy at times because of the 3 ft high tide at 5:45am, but as the tide dropped the morning kept getting better. We had really clean…
Went for an afternoon surf session today with Donnie at 56th Street in Newport Beach. When we got there around 1pm, the tide was low. The waves coming off the last jetty were super hollow and tantalizing. And the water was amazingly glassy, especially for an afternoon session. The trick to the waves today was…