Glassy with Shark on the Brain

Those were 70s waves out there today.  The kind you see in all the classic surf films from that era.  And I would have done well to bring the Revolver instead of the Electric.  Mind you the electric was superb, but the Revolver would have paddled in better and made those stylish sweeping turns that only come from a 70s style, single fin.  The waves were asking for that kind of action.  And to make things even better, that water was as glassy as it gets; like cartoon water.

However, that is not to say the session was a 10.  Oh, no.  I was acutely aware that there is currently a great white shark breaching only 40 miles up the coast.  For the first 20 minutes or so, my adrenaline was running so high I was getting the shakes.  I tried to stay close enough to other surfers to feel safe, but not crowd them.  Invariably I’d ruin everything by starting a conversation with, “Man!  Did you see those shark pictures?”  (Never a good topic of conversation out in the water.)  Later the police helicopter came overhead then started circling.  I was sure they’d spotted a shark swimming around.  Such paranoia.  Hopefully this shark fear will subside soon. It’s not doing me any good.

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