Rip Transition Time

ByJeff

The wintertime southward drift seems to be shifting into summertime northward rip, which mean I have to really start working on my backside action again.  The swell was raging today as well – consistent head-high waves.  It made for a tough paddle out.  But once I made it out the waves were fun.  Eventually, I drifted up to the pier and just didn’t have the strength to fight the rip anymore so I took one in.  Still need to get back to fighting strength again after all the long lulls this winter.  My pictures don’t really tell the story of today’s sweet waves, but here they are all the same.

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