More of those 70s waves I was telling you about yesterday were back today, only this time, I was ready for them. I headed out with the Revolver and had a groovy time with those foxy 70s waves. Sweeping up and down the faces on solid 3-4 foot faces. Perfect really.
I nearly suffered the surfer’s curse. I had a sweet ride and rode it all the way to shore. First I thought I should call it a day right there. But with the surfer’s curse, one good wave causes you crave another. I started wrapping up the leash, then thought, “No…just one more.” Usually (as you know) when you do this you are destined to bob out in the ocean for an eternity until you are forced to shamefully paddle back in. But not today, dear friends. Today, I actually caught an even better wave. It was a long right, head-high and I 70s’d the dickens out of that wave right up to the shore where the wave chucked me and my board right onto the sand. (In my zeal, I payed no attention to shore.) I lifted my head and saw couple of kids holding plastic beach toys staring at me lying there with worried looks on their faces as to my condition. smiled and hooted, “SUH-WEET!” They giggled and ran off.
However, the shark fear is still with me. There were a couple other dudes bobbing in the line-up so I felt a bit safer. And then I had 20 seconds of bliss when a dolphin showed up. I thought, “Hooray for dolphins!” But the dolphin seemed to be having his supper and started pouncing on fish. It would fly out of the water then come crashing down with all it’s weight in a sort of dolphin belly flop. Then the pouncing start coming closer and closer. Finally I shouted to the dolphin, “Easy, buddy!” The pouncing receded to a safe distance. It was like Flipper the way it understood me. Next time, I’ll try asking for something better. “Cash, dolphin!”