Long time listener, first time caller. I had my typical hesitation to head out at “secret spot” today, but that melted away upon the paddle out. Got an earlier start today, met up with Jeff and we were out in the lineup by 6:45 – the lineup being 2 other dudes. Started surfing right off the jetty, but the wave tended to back off closer to the inside today & made it difficult to connect with the next section, but once we shifted south a bit we were dialed in. Some nice chest to shoulder sized waves were rolling in (maybe even a rouge head high one or two) and they were delicious lines with just the right amount of speed and pitch. A-Bone met up with us in the water, and we all had some fun zingers! I felt pretty confident in my game today too. It’s like with all the time spent geeking out watching surf clips repeatedly (actually watched and analyzed one clip of a tube ride 50 times easily) I’ve gotten better. I’m sure surfing more regularly has something to do with it too.
My last wave was a bit questionable tho, as Jeff was on the inside of me, and i had even encouraged him to go, but with further assessment it looked like he was going to be too deep for a good take off, and upon hearing him say “Oh man, I’m going to eat shit” I had to go for it. It was a great ride in (sorry man). The kind of last ride that leaves you satisfied for the rest of the day or two. Didn’t feel too guilty when i saw Jeff catch another good one while i was changing to head into work – all before 8 o’clock. The sea looked like it was going to keep on giving, and it even seemed like it was giving a bit better as the morning tide was filling in just a bit. Now I’m just basking in the afterglow and assessing for tomorrow whether I’ll be working on cutting in paint, or working on my cutback.