I packed up my camera & tripod, suited up and took my board down to the pier today. My intent was to get some footage of the apex of the south swell rolling through, then paddle out myself. But I was surprised to only find 3 dudes out in the water when I arrived. I’d…
I’d gone up to Harbour Surf Shop to see about getting O’Neill to repair my torn wetsuit. Probably they will, but the catch is that my suit will be in the shop for 4 weeks or so. With the water temps in the mid 50s I was not too keen on sending it off. But,…
Oh how things can change when you are gone for a few days. I was camping with my family this weekend (awesome). When I left on Friday the waves were waist-high at best. Today they were waist-high at worst. Today’s sets came in easily at the shoulder-to-head range and were often overhead. The forecast indicates…
The summer doldrums continue to rain blows down on the southern California surf world. Another week of 2-footers goes by. But as always, a dumpy surf day with friends is ten times better than a great surf day alone. Mike, CW and Josh all turned up to make the best of the teeny waves. I…
The good news is that the sun has been out for two days straight, like it’s summer or something! Otherwise, today’s session offered nothing unique to anything else I’ve been getting over the last few weeks. Water is still in the VERY low 60s, but with the sun is out it a lot of hot…
While on a conference call this afternoon the power went out. I immediately took that as a sign from Poseidon that I was supposed to go back out and surf. As fast as I could I got my trunks on and my bike loaded before the power came back on. But the afternoon winds blew…
There wasn’t anything in the surf forecast that was driving me to the water, but it had been three days since my last surf (and stingray attack!) so I think I just had ants in my wetsuit. I have plenty of work to take care of, but I just could not focus or concentrate on…
A ray’s sting is caused by a sharp barb on the tail that transmits a venom into the victim. The feeling and pain are somewhat similar to a bee sting. The venom causes a pain, which is most intense 30-90 minutes after the sting, that ebbs and flows for a few hours. Cuts, swelling and…
After Sacred Craft Peter and I were at a total loss as to where to go to surf as neither of us had ever surfed in San Diego popper. But we hopped on the freeway and followed any sing reading “Beaches.” Eventually we found ourselves in Ocean Beach. I’ve actually been to Ocean Beach twice…
Despite some surprise traffic around Camp Pendleton, Peter and I finally made our way to Sacred Craft. It was like walking into surf shangri-la: longboards, shortboard, funboards, quads, thusters, singles, wood, fiberglass, epoxy, experimental, asymetrical…! Where do you even start? Pre-apologize, except for this one phone from the entrance, I was so dazzled by everything…