Super Fun Friday
With the big swell on the way, we first tried hitting up Dockweiler in hopes of catching some of the swell without the crowds, but we were out of luck. So we caravaned down to El Porto and paddled out there. It was a bit crowded, but man, oh man were those waves fun. The rights were gnarly drop-ins and the lefts were spectacular long rides. (The downside of the lefts being that the rip was going in the same direction, so after two or three waves we were a quarter mile down the beach.) Josh, Wilson, CW, Edgar and I all had some doozies.
My best wave came later in the session. Josh was padding back out after a sweet left and this bomb came right into my wheelhouse. Josh could see it was all mine and started hooting at me and I started hooting back, “Yeah, buddy!” I got to go sailing down this large face with him smiling back and encouraging me on. Surfing with friends is always SO much better.
We tried out a new breakfast spot. It was delicious, but it felt like we were cheating on our usual joint.
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