Poseidon brought me sweet birthday waves today. Not only were they great size and shape, but they were consistent as well. Even with the crowds, nobody was want for a waves. I surfed until my arms gave out. And I got to test out a new Harbour prototype board. It’s a kind of thruster biscuit…
Josh and I swapped boards so I got to ride his Electric Orange all morning. Dig that little board. It was a good day for the quad and I felt solid throughout the session.
Met up with a friend Brad to talk about some web stuff. Afterward he asked it I had my surf gear with me because he was heading out afterward. He was heading to the Sunset Jetty, which I’d never surfed before. That’s one of those breaks that only works under very specific conditions, but when…
Josh, Sean and I showed up for a drizzle El Porto Friday. The swell is coming straight in to shore, so we were treated to a morning of nasty closeouts – dangerous and fun. Josh was nuts out there today. Every time I was paddling back out, I’d see him paddle into the biggest, most…
More of the same – Perfect rights. I spent another 4 hour session out in the water. Today though I tried the Junod instead of the Revolver. More power turns, less cheater-fives. I was so engrossed in surfing that I forgot to take a picture, but I did grab this one from Surfline which depicts…
I went camping with the wife and friends at Leo Carrillo State Beach this weekend. I’d surfed a few different spots around Malibu, but never Leo. The forecast was showing that the pumping swell from the week should have been dying off, but it was not so. Both Friday and Saturday were perfection. I’d brought…
Every winter I seem to want to size down some. This fall is promising the cycle will continue. My 6’8″ is just feeling too long. Josh, Peter and I were discussing this last Friday. Finally Peter said, “Just get it over with, go to 6′ or so and take the time to learn!” In the…
I think today is going to be the apex of this current wave pulse. And it was glorious. Shoulder-to-head high waves, glassy water, light breeze, short period, frolicking dolphins… The water was so clear this morning that I could see my shadow under the water on the sand about 10-12 feet down. I caught 3…
There was a disturbance in the force today. The morning started out with a fair amount of wind, so the water was choppy right from dawn. The waves were angrier than yesterday as well, harder to predict. I didn’t have the success on the Chuck Dent today that I had yesterday either, but that’s to…
I knew that a swell was on the way, but I was busy all weekend so I didn’t pay too much attention. So I was pumped when I biked up to the pier and saw the waves pumping. Glassy water, clear skies, waves peeling left and right, shoulder to head high… Just needed some friends…