A Quick Little Session
Stole a quick hour to paddle out and catch some waves. Still have a lot of work to do today, so I forewent video and pics (sorry) to help save time. What a fun little day it was. The waves were great 2-3s with some bigger set waves on occasion. The water was clear, the sun was out and the breeze was ever so slight. I still manage wind up in the sand more times than not, but was mostly my doing. For some reason, I have been adamant about staying up until either a) the wave peters out or b) the wave ejects me. The petering out is tame enough obviously, but the ejections are taking a toll (e.g. my torn suit last week). It’s definitely made from some thrilling moments in the last few weeks. I’m not 100% about my reasoning for this new rule, but I’m guessing my thinking is that if I keep forcing myself into those critical situation, eventually it will make me a better surfer. But much like when I started surfing, it’s only resulting in wipeouts thus far. Though I have some momentary barrels before the wave exacts it vengeance on me, so that’s promising.
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