The Dry Spell Is Over!
It’s ironic that the “dry spell” of my surfing was mainly due to rain. Although the fierce winds earlier this week didn’t…
Lumpy Porto
Another sluggish, lumpy surf day. BUT we did have an actual El Porto Friday with Josh, Mike and Uzair. So, no matter…
More Sluggish Swell
Same waves today as yesterday – sluggish shoulder-high swells that refused to pitch over. On very rare occasions the some lovely peaks…
Goodbye, Big Swell
The big swell has left us, leaving sizable waves that lack the impetus to pitch over. The waves would build to the…
Another Day of Sweet Bombs
Yet another day of terrific, chunky bombs out there. Caught a few more exhilarating overhead waves. I decided to take the Doug…
Wave of My Life!
This surf session was fraught with bomb waves, but one in particular was stellar. I took the Junod out today having learned…
Finally Back in the Water
It was a long, long dryspell – about 11 days by my counting. Today finally presented the all clear and the time…
A Ride Like Butter
Today’s session was the best since the rains. That’s not to say it was great, just better. The waves were breaking in…
Pleasantville
Peter and I met up for a Dawn Patrol sesh at Sunset Blvd. It was my first time out since all of…
All Bark, No Bite
Once again I took my Junod out with its new fin, but still no love from the waves. They had size, but…