Peter and I met up for a Dawn Patrol sesh at Sunset Blvd. It was my first time out since all of the rain so I was looking for a pretty mellow morning, and that is exactly what we got. The crowd was small and we had plenty of room to move around. The waves were mostly 2’s and 3’s, slightly textured. Every 20 – 25 minutes a nice set of chest high waves would roll through. In between the sets was a pretty fruitless lull period where we would chase down tiny bumps and try to get into them. I had a watch on so I timed the sets and I would paddle right into the sweet spot right before the waves would come in. That strategy paid off and I got a set wave every time….Nice long rights. I was riding my trusty single fin red log Kruisechev and that board lived up to its name. Kruising, trimming….. Good times this morning. Everyone had a smile, it was a totally chill morning.
FARTS! you were timing the waves?!?! i thought you were hooking into a monk-like mind-frame during those lulls. no wonder you were in full trim while i was in full flounder. next time i’m sticking right next to you
I noticed they were coming in regular intervals so I thought I’d try it. They were rolling in like clockwork, brother. 22 – 23 minutes
For the love of Jack Lord! Look at the way those rights just keep peeling in on that second picture. Perfect.