A Ride Like Butter

Today’s session was the best since the rains. That’s not to say it was great, just better. The waves were breaking in more than just the one spot off the pier, but the first break was were the size and power was. So once again, every surfer waited and fought and scrapped for the bigger set waves just 100 yards south of the pier.

While in the maw of dudes (no ladies today), I did pick off one humdinger of a right. I just slalomed through the traffic all the way to the beach.  Nice, long, carving turns pre-planned to guide me around the insiders, scrappers and groms.  This was the first real test I had of the new Joe Aaron JM Fin on the Junod. After trying out three different fins on that board, I’ve found the perfect match.  Shane over at Harbour recommended the fin to me.  It’s super flexy and tapers at the base to give it a glassed-on feel.  And I’ll tell you what, my humdinger right felt so smooth, like I was riding on a board of butter.  Looking forward to bigger, stronger waves to really try and uncork the potential of this fin/board combo or wipeout trying.  (Most likely the latter.)