Yet another day of terrific, chunky bombs out there. Caught a few more exhilarating overhead waves. I decided to take the Doug Haut out today to continue riding a different board each day of this swell. My Haut is the only thruster I own. I always have a hard time adjusting to three fins. It takes a few wobbly drop-ins before I start getting comfortable. Unfortunately the moment of comfort often coincides with the time to head in.
Today I had a lunch meeting to run off to, so the sesh was cut extra short. But the good news was that I was able to take my nice camera since I could keep it in the car.
Super fun session. What an awesome swell this has been. I’ll be sad to see it go.