My computer battery is about to run out, so I’m just going to give you the cliff’s notes. Went out to the same break today. Bit more walled out than yesterday and the wave height dropped about a foot or so. Wind spray off the top of the wave was insanely cool, huge plumes. Light breeze sucked all the warmth off my hands and face. Kept my feet underwater to prevent heat loss there. The water was warmer. Despite being Thanksgiving day, crowds still super small. From the top of the cliff, where you can see a mile up and down the coast I could only count a dozen surfers. Mind boggling.
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone.