Oh my! Those waves were some kind of crazy out there. The waves were peeling south from the pier – just tearing down the line with terrible vengeance and fuuurious anger. What made it extra terrifying was that I got down to the beach at extreme low tide so these waves were breaking over minimal water. Over head waves and low tide is a recipe to get drilled into the sand. Not to mention I hadn’t been out in a week. (I know the pictures don’t look like it was nuts out there, but it was, I assure you.)
But I played it smart and stayed patient. I scored some choice waves. I drove hard down a nice right and pig-dogged a couple lefts. It felt good to be back in the water and felt even better not being beat into the sand.
After winning the wave jackpot, I scored in the bonus round when this kindly random family handed me a fish taco on my way out of the water. They were a vacationing family and had ordered too much food. They said, “better you eat it than us giving it to the seagulls.” I couldn’t agree more. It was delicious.