Thundering Freight Trains in Huntington
Oh my! Those waves were some kind of crazy out there. The waves were peeling south from the pier – just tearing down the line with terrible vengeance and fuuurious anger. What made it extra terrifying was that I got down to the beach at extreme low tide so these waves were breaking over minimal water. Over head waves and low tide is a recipe to get drilled into the sand. Not to mention I hadn’t been out in a week. (I know the pictures don’t look like it was nuts out there, but it was, I assure you.)
But I played it smart and stayed patient. I scored some choice waves. I drove hard down a nice right and pig-dogged a couple lefts. It felt good to be back in the water and felt even better not being beat into the sand.
After winning the wave jackpot, I scored in the bonus round when this kindly random family handed me a fish taco on my way out of the water. They were a vacationing family and had ordered too much food. They said, “better you eat it than us giving it to the seagulls.” I couldn’t agree more. It was delicious.
Oh man! South side looks like it was firing! The fish taco sounds like the perfect closure to a stellar session- very soulful. Surfing is a way of life. What makes us good surfers is not the waves we ride, but the way we live. The ultimate ride lies within.
Himilayas on the North Shore (Oahu) was 10-12 foot and epic this morning. One ride I had was the ride of the winter so far!
Thanx for the killer update (you’re making me homesick)- ride on.
Homesick? Don’t forget the water is in the 50s now. You don’t even have to own a wetsuit in Hawaii. Talk about jealous.
Yeah but since I’ve been here them wetsuits have advanced a ton in the past 15 years.
We started calling the spot “Beach Bowls” back in the 80’s, 20 something years ago (when wax was 25 cents). That’s awesome that the name lives on. The key was the state parking pass. that is awesome that you can ride your bike there (I’m jealous).
can’t wait to see these out there in the new year: