Had a great session at the Huntington Pier today. The only thing keeping it from being epic was the crowds. Had the traffic been lower, it could have been a truly epic day. I’m not complaining, mind you – I nabbed four waves in particular that will be logged away for a long time as benchmarks for awesome, filed under the “why we surf” tab.
My surfing mates today were Josh and Josh’s Pop. It’s always funny to see Josh and his Pop together – the acorn didn’t fall too far from the tree. If you’ve ever had the pleasure of seeing Josh spin a surf yarn, he learned it from his dad. So imagine two Josh’s swapping surf stories feeding off each other’s stoke and you’ll know what it’s like to be lucky enough to go surfing with Josh and his dad. (If you haven’t, you should definitely put “surf with Josh” on you Life List.)
Josh’s Pop is a surfing inspiration. For his sixtieth birthday (which was a few years ago), he went surfing. And not to Bolsa Chica or San O on a 10 foot log, mind you. He went to Trestles…on his shorty (which is shorter than my smallest board). What’s more, he owned it that day (which is pretty standard for him). I’ve surfed with him at Trestles and I’ve surfed with him at Huntington and every time we paddle out I am always happy to be reminded that so long as I take care of myself, I won’t ever have to stop surfing. So, there’s your quasi-moral for the new year.