It’s ironic that the “dry spell” of my surfing was mainly due to rain. Although the fierce winds earlier this week didn’t help much either. But finally, FINALLY, after nearly 3 awful weeks out of the water, the planets aligned, the council voted “aye,” and the gods decreed that Jeff could finally go surfing again.
Mike was coming down to Orange County to visit his buddy Adam and they invited me to join them for a surf session. We headed up to the pier as it was the only OC spot with any sizable forecast. They waves were a tad junky, but the crowds were low, I was with some buds AND I WAS SURFING! I went berserk out there. I caught any ripple that came my way. I ran myself ragged in the two hours or so that we were out. I thought for sure after such a long hiatus I wouldn’t have the strength to catch much, but I think I was running on adrenaline the whole time. I was so giddy, I even forgot to take pictures.
Afterward, we each had a huge meal at a local cafe. Not a scrap of food was left over. Two hours later I texted Mike that my stomach was rumbling again already. He texted back that he’d already eaten again.