It seems I was wrong about the dry spell being over last time. Now nearly another month went by and I was never able to paddle out. More rain, flu, camping… But today I got out again. And I nailed a doozy chest-high wave right off the bat, so that really got me stoked.
The biggest player out there was the wind. It was blowing straight off the beach, which made for some great wave shape, but made it damn hard to get on to the wave. I took the Revolver out which has a wide nose. And every time I’d get myself onto the wave, a giant pressure pocket would build up and blow me back off the wave. One time a real nice wave built up and me and two other dudes tried for it, but we all were pressure-pimped. We each looked at each other, not in the “don’t drop in on me” way, with faces saying, “I can’t get on this! Can you get on this? Somebody get on this!”
But when you did get on them, super fun. I am super blissed out right now.
Leave a Comment