Brandon, Donnie and I hedged all our bets today in the hopes of finding more than the recent 1-2s. As I’m sure you know all the reports are indicating that we are going to get some of the good stuff this weekend. All the sites predicted “hints” of the coming swell over the course of the day. So we waited for mid-tide, then hit up 9th Street in Huntington. Up until we went out, the sky was clear and the air was warm. Then this heavy overcast rolled in like storm and the wind picked up. We should have seen this as a sign.
Mman, oh man, did we time our session just right. No sooner did we paddle out when these monster sets started rolling in and pounding us. The seemed to get farther and farther out to sea too. Cranking over those beasts was a chore. The wind had really kicked up a heavy chop, so all paddling momentum was sucked away after each stroke. On many of the sets the last wave or two would pick off a few of us and throw you all the way back to the beach. On one of these clean out sets, poor Brandon really got tossed and cut his hand just by shear force of the wave smashing into is board. It was crazy chaos out there. Most everyone out in the line up had a kind of confused look on their faces trying to figure it all out. Then after about 60 minutes of the madness, it all went flat again. We couldn’t buy a wave back into shore.
But in the time I did have with the bigger waves I did manage to get a half dozen or so good faces and drop-ins. It was definitely the best session I’ve had wave-wise since that last monster swell rolled in during mid-July.