There wasn’t anything in the surf forecast that was driving me to the water, but it had been three days since my last surf (and stingray attack!) so I think I just had ants in my wetsuit. I have plenty of work to take care of, but I just could not focus or concentrate on what I needed to do. Sensing my restlessness, my wife finally came into my office and said, “Just go surfing and get it over with already!” Good call, baby.
Surfline was pretty accurate with the 2-3, though it was heavier on the 2 side. But the water was uncommonly glassy and if you caught the wave right, the rides were long enough to make the paddle out all worthwhile. I figured I just get my Obligatory Three and go, but I was having so much fun and the waves were coming so consistently that I lost count at a certain point. A few big sets rolled in later into the session that were superb. On one wave I tried to crack one off the top, but I goofed it and let all my energy and moment get zapped and belly-flopped right in front of this other dude paddling back out. When I popped back up he said, “Bummer.” I agreed.
The weirdest moment came during a lull between sets. I noticed all these little bubbles popping on the surface of the ocean. I was sure bait fish and even more sure that meant a shark was nearby. Then the “popping” increased in intensity and now I was doubly sure a shark was gunning for me (not any of the other two dozen dudes around me, mind you, RIGHT FOR ME!). I looked around and notice that everyone else was looking up. I was the last one to realize that it had started raining on us in the water. All the “bubbles popping” were raindrops hitting the water. It was surreal. This really is the weirdest summer ever. The “Bummer” called out to me, “What a trip!”
The big question is now – will I be able to focus on work…it is lunch time right now…Scott Pilgrim vs. The World starts in a few hours…
[vimeo]http://www.vimeo.com/14246410[/vimeo]