More Will Than Waves

ByJeff

While on a conference call this afternoon the power went out.  I immediately took that as a sign from Poseidon that I was supposed to go back out and surf.  As fast as I could I got my trunks on and my bike loaded before the power came back on.

But the afternoon winds blew out the glassiness from this morning and the crowds were insane.  The chop was ferocious and waves were blending into other waves, all mostly unridable.  It was a real effort to catch a wave.  It was even more of an effort to catch a wave that really counted as a wave.  Mostly I just paddled laps between two lifeguard towers while waiting for something workable to ride.  When I did catch a wave, the entire ride was precisely dictated into a particular slaloming path through the spongers and beachgoers.

Still, I got to paddle out a second time today, and the air was hot enough to go in trunks.  Thanks Poseidon.

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