Prison Rules at Goldenwest

I hadn’t really planned on going out today, being the day after Thanksgiving and all.  But Josh called around 10 and asked if I’d been out yet since the swell picked up.  Honestly, I had no idea such a big swell was coming through.  With being on vacation and Thanksgiving, the surf reports were way off my radar.  But like we always do, we convinced each other to go for a paddle out.

Bad idea.  It was ferocious out there.  The waves were ranging from 4 to 7 feet or so.  Just getting out past the break was a feat of mind, body and soul.  Half the people that tried to paddle out didn’t even make it.  It was low tide, and most of these giant beasts were just evil close outs.  Swirling maws of sand eddies lurked stretched all the way out to the break. And the waves were breaking over 3-4 feet of water, so caution was the name of the game.  These were the kind of waves you ride down and the white water would explode twice around you like an atom bomb.  Surviving the white water was harder than making the drop.  It was nuts out there.  But, usually the worst sessions make the best stories.  And it is always better with a friend!

Josh managed to snag 3 of the dragons, whereas I only got one worth counting.  But I did have my new Michel Junod out there with me.  And the one I did get, it rode like a dream.  I look forward to many more (better) session with the Junod. (I’m still trying to figure out a name for the new board. Feel free to drop some suggestions.)