After having been on another long surfing dryspell, I finally made it out again, and for a genuine El Porto Friday no less. Everyone else seemed like they were in the same boat. And despite the puny forecast (1-3s), we had the strongest crew I think I’ve ever seen – 8 dudes (no ladies today)! We had Josh, Mike, Aaron, Chris, Jordan, Wilson, me and EPF newcomer Jorge. And we surfed hard. Everyone stayed as long as they could. Aaron, Mike and I were about for about 2.5 hours (until the parking meters kicking into play). We just couldn’t get enough.
The big news of the day was my picture perfect pearl. Aaron and I both had our tankers out for some cruising (and cruise we did). A doozie of a wave came right to me. I had to do next to nothing to catch it. I just had to wait; it rolled up and carried me away, no sweat. But I was way too far forward (I don’t know why), and the rest all happened in shameful slow-mo. The nose went under, I slid forward and the board shot out the back of the wave (luckily clearing everyone in the line up). So embarrassing – full on kookdom.
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