Today would have been day 11 in my dry spell since the rains started. And believe you me, I was heading into some serious cabin fever madness. But today, the waves came and the rains did not; and so I finally got to paddle out again. It couldn’t have been any better – great waves and a super long, close encounter with a dolphin pod. (Three surfaced around me within 10-15 feet and stopped. Just sat there for a bit. I felt obligated to speak to them to break the awkward silence they were there so long.)
The waves were ranging from waist to some rare overhead set waves. The size and shape were there, but the strength was just a bit under, so that the waves would only crumble instead of pitch over. (Otherwise, these would have had some crazy barrels.) And unfortunately, due to landlubbin’ for 10 days, I didn’t really have the extra umph I usually have to get into the waves.
But when I caught them they were the greatest waves I’ve ever ridden. Some of it was probably just the euphoria of being out again, but the waves really were good. On my first wave, a nice giant left, I took off and flew down the face and cranked off the bottom. I carved around a dude paddling out and he gave me a big smile and a triumphant, “WOOO!” as if he knew this was my first wave in forever. I gave him double thumbs up as I cut around him.
It couldn’t have been any better. But there is a lesson to be learned: maintain an exercise regimen during the rain days lest ye arms and stamina be dookie when you paddle back out.
