According to Surfline.com, there is a big event brewing over the next few days. We should be seeing some serious surf in the coming week, possibly on the order or 6-7 feet. Whenever something big rolls through, I like to be sure to get out regularly several days before hand, just to make sure I’m in decent paddling shape. Also, I get to build up to the max swell over a period of days, rather than jumping right in to the Big Wednesday. There’s nothing worse than having a great swell event roll through and be unprepared for it.
So, I grabbed the Pumpkin Seed and headed down to Beach Bowls. The report prediced 2-4s. I saw the 2s, but didn’t see much of the 4s. And the waits in between the sets were long, long, long. I forgot my leash this morning too. Luckily, there wasn’t much to wipeout on, and the one time I did lose my board was when I was heading in anyway.
Nothing really exciting to report. I caught my requisite minimum 3 waves, I had the break to myself, I paddled around a lot for conditioning.
Stay posted, brothers and sisters, big swell on the horizon.