The was not the 4-7 we were hoping for. For the most part the waves were 3-5, which would have been nice on a normal day. But because the forecast for huge surf the line up was super crowded and every wave was a scrapfest. The best waves I caught were in the wee hours of dawn before the crowds showed up. Josh and David both caught a few good ones later on, but I just couldn’t find the beat. I think I’d had myself so pumped up from the forecast that I put myself in the wrong state-of-mind before going out. Well, that, and the fact that I’ve been watching the US Open all week and I was hyper aware of what could be done on those waves. Also, this was the first time the surf got big since I got my new Electric and I really wanted to cut loose on it today. Clearly, I had WAY too much going on in my head to properly tie into any waves today. I’ll have to have Josh slap me around on the beach before we go out next time.
There was one spectacular wave that did roll through. It was the only major overhead wave that came in the whole 2 hours we were out there. Another El Porto regular (Jesus*) had been sitting on the outside all morning. And as if foretold by the gods, a single giant wave emerged on the horizon. Suddenly everybody except Jesus were WAY out of position. Jesus had been waiting for this wave and he was going to catch it. He went flying down the face at ramming speed. The wave was probably double overhead and we were all going to be right in his path. We all did our best to scramble out of his way. But the most amazing thing was how Jesus planned his deft maneuvers to slalom through all of us kooks right in his line. It was most impressive.
* We see this guy out there all the time. We don’t know his name, but we call him Jesus because he surfs so divinely and seems to walk on water. That dude is super good.