Glorious Morning at Huntington Pier

Surfline called this morning as 2-3 with occasional 4s.   I don’t know if I just hit the swell and tides just right, but dudes, let me tell you – it was awesome out there.  The sets were 3 to 4s easy with the sweepers of the sets in the easy head-high-plus range.  Dudes and ladies were launching huge arials, sliding deep into barrels and hooting the whole way down the faces of these waves.  Furthermore, there were tons of these giant set waves, so we did not have to fight and scrap just to get a few.  They were just there for the taking. The only caveat is that it is nearly all lefts today.  But if you catch these gems in the right spot, it can be a long, long left.  Sometimes it can be a bit sectiony out there today though, so keep and eye on that if you are looking for the long, long left.  The only thing keeping this day from being epic is that I had no bros to share the day with.  I need some fellow Swayzes out there to share in the glory.

I took the Quatro out because I thought it was going to much smaller. Lucky for me, that sweet board can handle the big stuff.  But I could have easy taken the Revolver or the Pumpkin Seed out there and been just as successful. All the same, I was giddy out there.

I did manage one arial with the Quatro that I like to call the “lame duck.”  It is a kind of lazy, uncoordinated launch where the board goes one way and I go a-kimbo in the opposite direction that ends with a back-flop.  It’s almost as if I’m eating it off the top of the wave.  It’s spectacular.  Billabong is thinking about sposoring the move.  Joel Tudor asked me to teach it to him.  It’s beauty left Kelly Slater in tears.

All kidding aside – don’t miss out!  Get out there now before it’s gone.