Donnie just got back from Maui and called me wanting to jump back into the water. I was in. But most of today’s adventure happened before we even got into the water (which was cold!).
First while packing up the boards in Donnie’s truck the bungee cord slipped and clanged off the rail on my Revolver. The wound wasn’t bad, just some fractured fiberglass, but I didn’t want to risk taking it out in the water just in case. So I ran back to the garage and grabbed my Pumpkin Seed in the hopes of some bigger waves.
We drove to the beach and pulled in to a pole position parking spot. Then I suddenly remembered that I still hadn’t fixed my leash on the Pumpkin Seed from when I broke it last time I rode it. Luckily there was still plenty of Independence Day revelry trash in the streets so I was able to fashion a quick fix with some gutter-ribbon (which held up the whole session!).
I did get one superb run on a bigger set wave – long run, huge face…perfect. But as is the surfing version of Murphy’s Law, it was my first wave of the session, and I spent the rest of the sesh trying to recapture that glory. Most notable out in the ocean today was the cold snap we had in the last few days. The water was in the mid 50s. But we waited for the sun to emerge before we paddled out, so it balanced out.
Also the dolphins were in rare form. There was a pod goofing off in our area. They were riding in waves, doing flips out of the water, making near-by passes… Of course, I didn’t have my camera today.