It was a long, long dryspell – about 11 days by my counting. Today finally presented the all clear and the time to hit the waves. I took the Quatro out thinking that would help ease the paddle out. (Once again I was remiss to keep up with some arm exercises during the lay days.) But the waves were nearly head-high and the chop was significant, so paddling anything especially a long board was a chore. So much so that I actually saw a few other dudes get repelled by the ocean. They tried valiantly to make it out to the break, but it was not to be. The good news was that the crowds were quite low, so I had my section all to myself. I caught every choice wave that came my way. Jack Lordy, did it feel good to be out again. The downside of having the waves to myself was that I tuckered out pretty fast. (Well, that in combination with me not having been out in nearly two weeks.) Other than that, it was just a nice surf session. Nothing special to report.
