Oh how things can change when you are gone for a few days. I was camping with my family this weekend (awesome). When I left on Friday the waves were waist-high at best. Today they were waist-high at worst. Today’s sets came in easily at the shoulder-to-head range and were often overhead. The forecast indicates this swell is going to build over the next few days. But anything more that what I was in today, and I’m going to have to use the buddy-system out there.
Most of my rides were in the “hold on!” category with the wave in total control. But I did get one superb right that went all the way to the beach (where I paid the price for riding it all the way in). I was just gliding up and down, up and down, just having a grand ol’ time until I realizes the beach was nigh and I had no exit plan. But it was totally worth it.
Bummer news from the day: my wetsuit finally gave up the ghost. It’d been starting to fray as some of the seem junctions, but today one of them burst open. With the water being as cold as it is, I don’t know how much longer I’m going to be able to tough it out now with all that arctic freeze rushing in at every seem.