Josh, Sean and I showed up for a drizzle El Porto Friday. The swell is coming straight in to shore, so we were treated to a morning of nasty closeouts – dangerous and fun. Josh was nuts out there today. Every time I was paddling back out, I’d see him paddle into the biggest, most evil waves and get consumed by the close-outs. Wave says: NOM NOM NOM! That dude is a wave warrior.
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