Josh, Sean and I showed up for a drizzle El Porto Friday.  The swell is coming straight in to shore, so we were treated to a morning of nasty closeouts – dangerous and fun.  Josh was nuts out there today.  Every time I was paddling back out, I’d see him paddle into the biggest, most evil waves and get consumed by the close-outs. Wave says: NOM NOM NOM!  That dude is a wave warrior.

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