Day Two at Leo Carrillo

More of the same – Perfect rights.  I spent another 4 hour session out in the water.  Today though I tried the Junod instead of the Revolver.  More power turns, less cheater-fives.  I was so engrossed in surfing that I forgot to take a picture, but I did grab this one from Surfline which depicts the spot well. Just so much fun again.  The toughest part is choosing what board to ride.  For part of the wave, I wanted a longboard and the other half I wanted a short board.  I needed some kind of James Bond convertible board.  Go-go Gadget Longboard!

Read more about the break on Surfline.

1 Comment

  1. Robin Thomson on 5 January 2011 at 3:34 pm

    You need a convertible board? Well get yourself a surf mat. The only wave craft you can change the shape of as you ride to suit what the wave is doing!

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