Day Two at Leo Carrillo
More of the same – Perfect rights. I spent another 4 hour session out in the water. Today though I tried the Junod instead of the Revolver. More power turns, less cheater-fives. I was so engrossed in surfing that I forgot to take a picture, but I did grab this one from Surfline which depicts the spot well. Just so much fun again. The toughest part is choosing what board to ride. For part of the wave, I wanted a longboard and the other half I wanted a short board. I needed some kind of James Bond convertible board. Go-go Gadget Longboard!
Read more about the break on Surfline.
You need a convertible board? Well get yourself a surf mat. The only wave craft you can change the shape of as you ride to suit what the wave is doing!