Donnie and I have set into a habit of going surfing everyday at 10.30. But over the last few days as the swell has dropped and dropped, we’ve gravitated closer and closer to the pier. (Today was a far cry from the 5 footers plus we were tangling with last week.) We stared at the water for a bit trying to pump each other up. But there really was just nothing out there to get excited about. Worse still, the overcast wasn’t burning off so the trunks were starting to seem like a bad idea. Eventually we paddled out. We sat out there for about 30 just to confirm that indeed things were as bad out in the water as they looked from the shore. We did our best to ride something in (Shaun Tomson Rule #10: I will ride, and not paddle in to shore), but even that proved nearly impossible. I considered doing the McConaughey dance myself but I couldn’t find any palm fronds large enough to please Poseidon. I’ll have to email McConaughey and find out where he buys his chant-fronds.
