Sliders and Gliders at El Porto
Good times at El Porto today. As usual, the break looked deceiving disappointing from the parking lot. Often El Porto looks small…
I Just Flew In From Huntington Beach…
…And boy are my arms tired! What had been building for the last two days seems to culminate today. Huge, strong sets…
Taunting Dolphins at Huntington
Donnie and I went out to the same spot at the same time today to try and recapture yesterday’s glory. Although I…
First Dings and MacGuyver Fixes at 9th Street Huntington
Donnie just got back from Maui and called me wanting to jump back into the water. I was in. But most of…
Kruisechev & the Scorpion at Sunset
Although it sounds like a pair of Villains from an old James Bond movie, it was actually just Peter and I paddling…
West of Jesus – Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief by Steven Kotler
I just finished reading Steven Kotler‘s West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief where he searches for “surfing, science…
Becker Hybrid
This is a Becker Hybrid, a pin tail with a 2+1 fin set up. (7′ 4″ long x 20 1/4 wide x…
Tandem and Trio Delights at El Porto
The cold is gone and after a week long dry spell, I finally got back out in the water today…and it was…
Chop Suey, Venice Style
Mixed bag at Venice this morning. We got there early and it was windy and choppy. Things cleared up a bit as…
Super Sweet Pics from El Porto
Happy July everyone! Trying to avoid the holiday crowd, we went for an early week surf sesh at El Porto today. Good…