I Just Flew In From Huntington Beach…
…And boy are my arms tired!
What had been building for the last two days seems to culminate today. Huge, strong sets rolled in one after the other with very few lulls. Many of the set waves were wll overhead. And the rip from the south was super strong. So when not riding waves, I spent most of my time paddling back out or paddling back to my spot at 11th street. I was super mega pooped after an hour or so. I am completely zapped and my arms are useless.
But, oh were those waves fantastic. Big, strong waves. The kind of waves that when you ride down them you can feel their power rumbling under you board. Even though it was a short surf sesh I definitely caught a grip of waves. Just one after another. I was out with Donnie and Steve today and we never really had time to talk to each other for riding waves.
I did manage to bruise a toe real bad on the way back to the car, so that was awesome. It going to hurt for weeks so plan on reading about it future session reports. It will surely be the cause of my poor surfing, wink, wink.
My arms are so tired I can barely type.
I’m going to go eat 3 or 4 burritos now.
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