Beach Bowls Dented My Shinbone

The swell is still picking up for sure.  Not only were the waves a bit bigger today, but they were stronger too.  Also the rip from the south, famous in Huntington, is back causing some more texture in the water.

The first wave I went for jacked up pretty steep.  I should have pulled out, but my confidence on the Electric got the better of me and I dropped in on a vertical face.  As you might imagine, it all went quite wrong at that point.  I clanged into my board a few times in the spin cycle, most notably the collision between the Electric’s rail and my shinbone.  I was so worried I had put a ding in the board already.  Luckily, I only dented my shinbone.  Close one!

After that episode, I was a bit more careful in picking out my waves.  But the waves were shoulder to head high and I sped down quite a few of them.  It seemed like I was going super fast down those faces – fast like my cheeks were flapping in the wind.  But just like yesterday, at a certain point, all I wanted were some Highlighters to share the waves with.  Luckily tomorrow is Friday, which means buddies at El Porto!