Short Video of the Big South Swell
I packed up my camera & tripod, suited up and took my board down to the pier today. My intent was to…
New Wetsuit at Crabs
I’d gone up to Harbour Surf Shop to see about getting O’Neill to repair my torn wetsuit. Probably they will, but the…
Edge of My Comfort Zone
Oh how things can change when you are gone for a few days. I was camping with my family this weekend (awesome)….
EPF Episode 17: Oh, Summer…
The summer doldrums continue to rain blows down on the southern California surf world. Another week of 2-footers goes by. But as…
Same Summer Surf
The good news is that the sun has been out for two days straight, like it’s summer or something! Otherwise, today’s session…
More Will Than Waves
While on a conference call this afternoon the power went out. I immediately took that as a sign from Poseidon that I…
Small Glassy Waves and…Rain?
There wasn’t anything in the surf forecast that was driving me to the water, but it had been three days since my…
How to Treat a Stringray Wound
A ray’s sting is caused by a sharp barb on the tail that transmits a venom into the victim. The feeling and…
Stingray Greeting at Ocean Beach
After Sacred Craft Peter and I were at a total loss as to where to go to surf as neither of us…
A Layman’s Visit to Sacred Craft
Despite some surprise traffic around Camp Pendleton, Peter and I finally made our way to Sacred Craft. It was like walking into…