Surfline claimed 2-4 and Fair. But after the last few days’ reports being off by so much, I didn’t expect much. I took the Merlin out again because I feel we haven’t properly bonded yet and I’m going to keep taking her out until our grooves sync. Today was a step in the right direction. Surfline wasn’t exactly wrong on the forecast either. There were 2-4 foot waves out there, the catch was that the sets only came every 15-20 minutes. Luckily, there were only 2 or 3 other dudes out this morning, so it wasn’t a fight every time the big one came, I had them to myself.
I faired pretty well on the few that came my way. On the first wave I caught I was so pumped to have a good wave after so many days of being skunked that I was determined to ride it to the end. The end was a barreling shorebreak, but my determination was such that I tried to get shacked. But instead I was just shoved into the sand. I also caught one of the rare 4 footers that came through, but I was so giddy to catch it that I popped up too early, rode it way too high and couldn’t get down into the pocket. Eventually the wave pitched and once again chucked me onto the sand.
*Sorry, I put the wrong date on the video. Should be 3 Aug.