A Better, but Sandy Session

Surfline claimed 2-4 and Fair.  But after the last few days’ reports being off by so much, I didn’t expect much.  I took the Merlin out again because I feel we haven’t properly bonded yet and I’m going to keep taking her out until our grooves sync.  Today was a step in the right direction. Surfline wasn’t exactly wrong on the forecast either.  There were 2-4 foot waves out there, the catch was that the sets only came every 15-20 minutes.  Luckily, there were only 2 or 3 other dudes out this morning, so it wasn’t a fight every time the big one came, I had them to myself.

I faired pretty well on the few that came my way.  On the first wave I caught I was so pumped to have a good wave after so many days of being skunked that I was determined to ride it to the end.  The end was a barreling shorebreak, but my determination was such that I tried to get shacked.  But instead I was just shoved into the sand.  I also caught one of the rare 4 footers that came through, but I was so giddy to catch it that I popped up too early, rode it way too high and couldn’t get down into the pocket.  Eventually the wave pitched and once again chucked me onto the sand.

*Sorry, I put the wrong date on the video.  Should be 3 Aug.

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