The good news is that the sun has been out for two days straight, like it’s summer or something! Otherwise, today’s session offered nothing unique to anything else I’ve been getting over the last few weeks. Water is still in the VERY low 60s, but with the sun is out it a lot of hot top/cold below. Summer crowds continue jamming in, trying to get in one last beach day before vacations ends. (Not complaining – I totally get it. I used to live inland too.) The wave period was long and waves moving slow which meant the waves would slog along. Tough to catch and even tougher to stay on. Occasionally a decent 3’+ sets would roll through, but everyone was hungry for it so everyone really had to fight to get on. But despite the crowds, most everyone was still very cool and there was very little dropping-in going on. Surfing etiquette held true.
When I did finally “ride” one in, I found two of my little nephews and my sister-in-law playing on the beach. That made the surf all worthwhile. I pushed the elder nephew (who’s 5) around on his boogie board and set him into some shallow crumblers. He totally dug it. After every ride he’d tell me, “That was a pretty big one!”
[vimeo]http://www.vimeo.com/14275520[/vimeo]