I arrived early at El Porto this morning. And after I arrived I received a few text from other Portoers that there was going to be some tardiness. But I looked out and the ocean was nearly empty with this tiny little barrels rolling in. (We had to tuck in super tight to try and get them.) I wasn’t waiting for those other suckers, so I suited up and paddled out. For about 20 minutes or more, I had this sweet section all to myself. I probably racked up a dozen rides for Josh and Sean showed up. The waves were still plenty fun, but the crowds really cam in after that and picking off corners became much more difficult. But I worked up such an appetite that I had to go for a big stack of flapjacks to refuel.

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