Tracey, Aaron, Thunderlips and I went down to Bolsa Chica on the south end last Sunday morning. We had a sweet session with some great waves as we drifted south into Dog Beach.
I had an unexpected tube. I’d been riding a right for a while and it was looking like it was ready to close out. But like a good captain I decided to go down with the ship rather than turn out. So I squatted down, tucked in, held my breath and waited for the beat down. But instead of getting slapped with water I was enveloped in a liquid cocoon with deep “Whoomp!” Expecting to be underwater, I opened my eyes to see the emerald water swirling around me. I thought, “Holy Moses, I’m in the tube!” And not sooner did I think that when the wave closed out and put me in the spin cycle. I was grinning and had the crazy eyes for the whole paddle back to the guys. Thunderlips took one look at me said, “You got shacked, didn’t you?”
After the surf session Aaron and the others went to Nick’s in Seal Beach for one of the best breakfast burritos ever and then Shangri-la: The Harbour Surf Shop. It was Aaron’s first time and down the rabbit hole he went…